With the made-to-measure realm of the fashion world booming, it’s no wonder suit newbies are a tad bit confused. Custom, bespoke, off-the-rack … what do they all mean? The thing is, there are levels to this.
Ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke all require some amount of alterations to achieve the perfect fit, but it is the amount needed for each suit that determines the price range. Although off-the-rack is made to wear as is, not every man has the build for this option.
Thankfully, there’s KASHIYAMA offering custom tailoring but without the bespoke price. New to New York City, the brand is a big brand name in Japan, offering decades of experience and high-end fashion technology to New Yorkers and all of their suiting needs.
KASHIYAMA offers custom tailoring but without the bespoke price. New to New York City, the brand is a big brand name in Japan, offering decades of experience and high-end fashion technology to New Yorkers and all of their suiting needs.
So, what are the main differences exactly? Typically, the term custom is reserved for bespoke suits. However, with the made-to-measure world expanding and fabric options and customization becoming the standard, the area around the terminology is turning a bit grey. Custom suits today differ depending on who is doing the tailoring and how much anticipated labor that will go into it. Throw in the actual production and manufacturing with the labor costs, and voila! Easily talking big money and by default a luxury product.
A full bespoke experience typically involves picking your own personal pattern with help on silhouettes and the like from the tailor, and absolutely no limit on adjustments in size or style. This suit is being made for you, and you only. However, since this process is way deep in labor and requires multiple fittings(sometimes up to 10!), this completely from scratch process can make the price rise 50-75% or more. Much higher than a made-to-measure suit would. Typically, bespoke suits start around $2000, and can easily cost upwards $10,000. Hey, you want full control, you got it. But pay up.
So where does KASHIYAMA fit in? They offer a very similar experience, except for a fraction of the cost. In the made-to-measure world, custom refers to all the varying options possible when building a suit. Switch it up with different pockets, lining and even a monogram! The Smart Tailor gives each client a range of fabric selections from countries such as the United Kingdom and Italy, along with dozens of customizations such as monogramming, interior lining color assortments and even buttons. If that doesn’t ignite excitement, then their price ranges will. Suits start around $300 with suit separates, such as vests, tailored jackets and pants start around $120.
Before made-to-measure brands like KASHIYAMA, there was always the more budget-friendly option with ready-to-wear. Normally referred to by it’s more affectionate fashion term, off-the-rack these suits are, quite literally, already made. Nothing wrong with this route, but only if you fit the model.
Alleviating the most common problem with off-the-rack, KASHIYAMA is known for fitting a range of sizes.
The main issue with these suits is the already predetermined sizes, styles and unfortunately shapes. Even with the size range and the lovely additional charge of alterations, if your body doesn’t scale to size the suit will never quite fit. Alleviating the most common problem with off-the-rack, KASHIYAMA is known for fitting a range of sizes.Their stylists take into account your personal posture settings, making sure the jacket and pants sit just right. This is where made to measure shines, as these type of alterations are near impossible with off the rack.
From rugby players (seriously, have you seen those guys?) to... you know, regular people, KASHIYAMA recognizes that not every man’s build matches that exact model that the suit was made from. No matter how money you throw at a tailor the measurements just might not add up. Plus, men of Manhattan want to feel good too.
So go ahead, make an appointment, and experience the world of custom suiting at their NY Guide Shop in the Fashion District or one of their WeWork locations opening this month in New York City.